Hydroxystearic Acid

Hydroxystearic acid is a saturated hydroxylated C18 fatty acid that works as a rheology modifier and structuring wax in oils and emulsions. It increases viscosity, stabilizes texture across temperatures, and creates a smooth, non-greasy feel.
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Snapshot

Overview
A fatty acid that thickens formulas for a smooth, non-greasy feel.
Category
Tone/Texture, Skin Conditioning
Type
Thickener

Ratings

Overall Rating

Good

Comedogenic Risk

None

Not typically evaluated for comedogenicity — no standardized rating available.

Is Hydroxystearic Acid a Good Ingredient?

Rated Good as a reliable thickener and structurant that stabilizes viscosity and improves glide, though it offers limited direct skin benefit on its own. In richer formats it can feel heavy and may be less suitable for acne-prone skin at high concentrations, which keeps it from a higher rating.

Skin Benefits

Gives formulas a plush, uniform feel and supports shape retention during everyday use. Contributes to a smooth glide on application.

Uses in Skincare & Cosmetics

Used in creams, balms, sticks, and mascaras to build body and create an elegant, stable texture.

Safety

Generally well tolerated with low irritation potential. In heavier, occlusive systems it may contribute to breakouts for some acne-prone users. No widely recognized regulatory limitations at typical use levels.